After the rather lacklustre closing ceremonies, I walked out the front door of Challenge Stadium, into a crowd of European polo players smoking rather horrifying cigarettes. The congestion was instantaneous! So then I had two pretty much sleepless nights. Flying congested meant I could hear squeaky noises in my ear as the fluid moved into uncharted territory on the
Fokker 50. I wasn't hearing well when I arrived in Coral Bay!
This is a quirky yet charming little hotel. They “upgraded” me to an ocean view – so I have a room with a king size bed higher than my sorry derriere that is also on casters.
I don’t imagine couples make out in it with wanton abandon because it sure scoots when I hop up on it! And the room also features two double (!) bunk beds. A table and 8 chairs, too! There are a few digital tv stations, but no room phones and no alarm clocks. And it seems that, at least in WA, if they tell you they have tea and coffee making facilities in a room it means they have a kettle, instant coffee sachets and tea bags. But real milk in the fridge.
I abandoned the glass mug of the Bodum in Perth, but cleverly managed to get the ground coffee and drip business into my suitcase. That definitely saved my morning this morning! There is a potable tap in the bathroom, the microwave is installed with a dangerous corner over the kitchen sink. The washing up water and showers are bore water (mmm, sulphurous!), but have outstanding pressure and I have had the best showers yet in Australia here. The two general stores in “town” don’t sell bread, because there are also two bakeries. And they are nothing short of phenomenal.
I should tell you that the staff of Coral Bay Adventures has impressed me no end. The gentleman who picked me up at the airport was quite lovely and informative, and his charming wife works in the shop/expedition office. They are a retired couple caravanning and working their way across the country. Having been here two months he was very knowledgeable about the area. Coral Bay trivia: the town runs on electricity generated by three windmills, with back-up diesel generators. There are three stations between Exmouth airport and Coral Bay. Stations are large farms of 100,000 acres of free roaming livestock. So there are signs up on the road you are to beware of wildlife (emus and kangaroos) as well as cows. There are also very impressive termite mounds!
I was first one into the shop this morning well before the 7:50 suggested arrival time, and finally, after a month in Oz, finally found a reasonable hat with a wide brim, chin strap, and UV protection value for only $20. I was fitted with my size 3 to 5 fins and extra small wetsuit with what I can only imagine are extra long arms and legs. By 8:30 or so our group was off on the buses to the jetty. We were a total 15 guests (fourteen snorkellers and one observer), to a crew of 2 swim leaders, 2 swimmers, one photographer and the captain. We were served morning and afternoon tea and a buffet lunch.
Beer, wine, or a soft drink afterwards while we watched the pictures we were provided with.Naturally my face and masks had some difficulty getting along, and the first children’s mask not only didn’t seal well, but the snorkel didn’t fit. So I had mouthfuls of seawater and my eyes stung like no get out after our trial snorkel. (I learned to swim on board ship in a saltwater pool. This was frustrating, but certainly not an unknown or insurmountable. And I had brought my seal mask just in case!) Back at the boat, they tossed me a different mask to do a short trial swim with, and it worked like a charm. We reviewed safety procedures and signals several times, as well as protocol.
Whale sharks are protected under
CITES and by the DEC (Department of Environment and Conservation) here in Australia, all tour operators are licensed and a $20 fee per guest goes into a protection and research fund. Our photographer’s job was also to take specific pictures of the gill areas of any sharks we interacted with, as well as any distinctive areas of fins or scarring on the animal. This information is entered into an accessible world wide database attempting to illuminate the largely unknown habits and biology of these impressive creatures.
Next we played a waiting game as the shared spotter plane worked a grid looking for the sharks. It had been overcast yesterday, but today was brilliant. The sun was out, the water was clear and warm – a very handy thing when your wetsuit doesn’t fit. But the signs were good. Small fishes were up at the surface, and birds were picking them off with relish, an indication that something big is forcing them up. There were two other boats out looking for sharks, too. One of the crew sprayed seawater from a large hose on the side of the boat to encourage the curiosity of the whale sharks. The instant the pilot indicated sharks had been spotted, our group sprung into action. Our wetsuit and fin clad bodies poached slightly as we sat on the deck with masks at the ready. From then on, for about an hour and a half, we did a shark relay, often one group standing on the marler board (a little interesting for me as the hand hold was well above and behind my head – yay for upper body strength and flexibility!) ready to enter the water as quietly as possible so as not to disturb the animals and cause them to dive. Our swimmers went first, locating the shark and acting as a living moving marker for us to swim to.
Elliott, our group leader, told me afterwards that this was the best first interaction he had led. Everyone was calm (and wildly excited at the same time); there was no panic. We had one swimmer in the group who did not see the shark, had difficulty with her breathing and could not manage the speed required. For the next round he towed her out first so she could have a real experience. Several people commented that they were tired out by the speed necessary to keep up with the sharks.
In all we had the pleasure of swimming with three different whale sharks. One was zippy, one was actively feeding, and one became so curious about us we had a bit of a time getting in front enough to keep the 4 metre protective zone around the whale shark’s head. It was an indescribable day!
On the way to our final snorkel site, the captain cut the engines significantly and we all scooted to starboard to watch magnificent manta rays swimming alongside near the surface, their fins coming out to wave at us repeatedly. This was a remarkable stroke of luck as the mantas are generally spotted by plane as well, and to happen upon two surface feeding was fabulous!
About half of us went on the final reef snorkel with both leaders. Halfway in, some returned to the boat, and the rest of us carried on. Sea turtles, cleaning stations, a myriad of different fishes and corals added to the impact of the day.
Elliott insisted I take the final piece of coffee cake later, although it wasn’t my first. “You’ve been swimming all afternoon!” was his rationale. And more or less, he was right! My shins have an interesting collection of bruises, I stiffened up a bit by early evening, tomorrow could be a bit trying and I wouldn’t have it any other way!* As our crew told us, few people ever have this experience, fewer still have the opportunity to meet three such magnificent creatures, and I would do it again in heartbeat!
A crew member said of the day, “It was wicked good.” And that really does sum it up well.
* Actually, it was fine. I wasn’t very stiff at all! I did a 1.5 k sea swim (more or less).